Often referred to as the Land of Thousand Hills, Rwanda is a landlocked Central-East African country, known for its beautiful scenery, diverse ecosystem, and coffee and tea production. It’s capital city, Kigali boasts a growing international community and is home to businesses, restaurants, galleries, shops, and numerous international organizations.

Some of you may also be familiar with Rwanda, due to its colonial history and the tragic and unjust 1994 genocide against the Tutsi’s. Present day Rwanda defies and shatters all the negative stereotypes and misconceptions that people could hold of the country, which were formed based on the country’s history at a snapshot in time.

A look at Rwanda 24 years later and the country is experiencing tremendous economic growth and has become a popular travel destination, especially with outdoor enthusiasts, artists, and many more. Do you have an upcoming trip to Kigali, Rwanda and are you interested in what there is to do? Having spent 4 days in Kigali, Rwanda, read below for my detailed itinerary, tips and recommendations, and top activities!

Day 1: The Touch Down

Inema Art Center and Poivre Noir.

Inema Art Center

During the day, Inema arts center is a gallery displaying artwork from African artists from all over the continent, but every Thursday night, the gallery transforms for its renowned Happy Hour. Featuring live music, art, and great drinks, this happy hour brings in a diverse crowd of internationals and locals working in a variety of industries.

Inema Arts happy hour was our first stop the night we arrived in Kigali and I LOVED it. The atmosphere was fun, lively, and inviting. I enjoyed meeting and learning from locals and from people from all over the world. Our evening at Inema really opened my eyes up to the thriving and growing young and international community in Kigali. If you’re in town on a Thursday, I suggest stopping by Inema’s Happy Hour for a fun and vibrant evening.

Dinner at Poivre Noir

A popular destination in Kigali’s food scene, Poivre Noir is a French and Belgian restaurant located in the Kimihurura area. Offering a fine dining experience, Poivre Noir provides a beautiful outdoor seating area and its menu features a variety of dishes, ranging from fish to steak to burgers. My friends and I stopped by and had dinner on their outdoor patio, where we spent the night eating, drinking, and chatting away. The atmosphere and food were lovely, with their fish being the major highlight for me. If you plan on visiting, keep in mind that Poivre Noir is on the pricier side and budget accordingly.

Day 2: Lake Kivu

Road tripping through Rwanda and relaxing by the water.

Day Trip to Lake Kivu

As one of the 15 Great African Lakes, Lake Kivu lies within the borders of the Democratic Republic of Congo and Rwanda. In Rwanda, Lake Kivu runs along the western border of the country and is accessible through a variety of lakefront towns. To plan a trip to Lake Kivu, first determine where you are visiting from, what area of the lake you would like to visit, and then determine the best way to get there from your departure location.

Our departure point was from Kigali and our destination was the Serena Hotel, located in the lakeside town of Gisenyi, in the Rubavu region. After researching transportation options we learned that the best way to get to Lake Kivu from Kigali was by road, with options including public buses or driving privately. In deciding that our best option was to drive ourselves, we rented a car and we were on our way. Three friends, uncontained excitement, and a 3-4 hour adventure before us! Interested in how we did it? Read more below.

Renting a Car from a local company

Prior to our departure for the Lake, we researched local car rental companies in Kigali and went to rent a car the morning of our trip. In our experience, the process for renting a car was straightforward. The company required a drivers license, identification, insurance, forms to be filled (insurance, responsibility, etc), and payment. They offered different rental packages and rates, based on the car type and duration of usage.

Once we chose a package and completed the paperwork, we were shown to our car. We inspected the vehicle and they provided information on what to do incase of emergencies, such as a flat tire, etc. After that we were off! If you’re interested in renting a car while in Rwanda, research local companies, understand what they require to rent a car (IDs, insurance, fees, etc.), and the packages they have available, before you make your decision.

Buying Snacks and Stocking up on Essentials

This was probably the most important task before the road trip. Who goes on a 3-4 hour drive without adequate snacks? Not Us… Before starting the scenic drive, we stopped by a local supermarket to buy ALL the snacks. In addition to snacks, we bought actual meals (it’s a must), and of course water (hydration is key). Then we were off!

The Journey

The drive from Kigali to Lake Kivu was beautiful...envision grand hills, lush greenery, and pure calmness...it was breathtaking. Taking in the scenery was an unbelievable and humbling experience, imagine witnessing nature that’s so impactful, it takes you out of your individual mindset and fills you with life.

The drive was through hills and on windy roads, therefore it's best the individual driving be an experienced driver, comfortable with navigating different road types. We passed through busy intersections, smaller towns, and villages, allowing us to see locals going about their daily lives. If you have the chance to do a road trip outside of Kigali, I definitely recommend it. The experience provides the opportunity to see and learn about the way of life and view the scenery outside of Kigali.

Serena Hotel

We only spent a short amount of time at the Serena Hotel...taking in the grounds, spending time at its Lakefront, having a bite from the cafe, and using the bathroom before we were off (they were clean!). What stood out and where we spent most of our time, was at the hotel lakefront, which provided a beautiful view of the Lake. The lakefront is an open green area with chairs and tables spread around, where you can lounge or walk around and take in the lake. We stood in awe and absorbed it all...the lake was beautiful, calm, and serene.

The Return

After our visit, we were on our way back to Kigali. What was that I heard? Another 3-4 hour adventure coming up? Yes! Ah..The things you get up to when you’re traveling. The return drive was more challenging because we left in the evening and as night struck, there weren’t many street lights and we relied on the light from our car while driving through the rural areas and hills. This was not ideal and safe, so I recommend driving while it's still bright out.

Advice

With limited time in Rwanda, we opted for a day trip from Kigali to Lake Kivu and my friend, an experienced driver, drove the entire trip (bless her soul!). If you’re organizing a trip to the Lake, I do not recommend a day trip, unless you’re in a time crunch, as we were. Rather, I suggest spending at least a night, and if you can, 2-3 days in the area. There’s a variety to do, ranging from scenic walks by the lakefront, to water activities, to visiting local islands.

As you plan your drive to the Lake, I recommend having multiple drivers, in order to take the burden off one person. I also suggest only driving while it’s light out due to the lack of streetlights outside the city and diverse terrain and road types. Prepare by planning and allocating adequate travel time. Opt to depart earlier in the morning or in the afternoon before it gets dark. Now that you’re equipped with some tips, go enjoy the tranquility and beauty Lake Kivu has to offer!

TIP: For travelers visiting the Volcanoes National Park for Gorilla Trekking, Lake Kivu provides a great location to visit before or after your trip.

Day 3 : The Kigali Genocide Museum and Memorial

Learning about the Genocide and honoring the lives lost.

Honor, learn, and reflect at The Kigali Genocide Museum and Memorial

The Kigali Genocide Museum and Memorial commemorates victims of the 1994 genocide, provides a space for survivors, and educates visitors on the genocide. I highly recommend visiting and learning about the 1994 genocide, factors that led to it, global response, and the impact, it’s an important part of Rwanda’s history (and our global history too).

Personally, I learned about the genocide as a young student and continued to educate myself as I grew older. As an individual passionate about human rights, justice, and equality, visiting the memorial was important for me, in order to honor victims and survivors, and to continue to educate myself. It was an emotional, solemn, educational, and unbelievable experience. I recommend dedicating adequate time to go through the museum and to walk around the memorial ground.

Walk around the City Center and visit Hôtel des Mille Collines

As the basis of Terry George’s film Hotel Rwanda, Hôtel des Mille Collines provided a refuge and housed 1000+ Hutu and Tutsi refugees during the 1994 genocide. After visiting the Kigali Genocide Museum and Memorial, don’t let the education stop there. Check out Hôtel des Mille Collines to see how the hotel has transformed and is running 24 years later.

While at Hôtel des Mille Collines we admired the beautiful grounds, discussed the historical significance of the hotel, and took in the views from the poolside. It’s a beautiful hotel, which can be very busy with visitors and guests. As you plan your visit, I suggest keeping that in mind.

Dinner at Sundowner Grab a bite at Now Now Rolex

For our last evening in Kigali, we met up with friends for dinner at Sundowner, an outdoor restaurant and bar located in the Kimihurura area. Sundowner offers a spacious outdoor area to chill, cheap drinks, and their DJ played great songs. Serving primarily meat and other foods such as pizza and chips, I can’t comment on the quality of the food, since I did not eat, as they lacked (in my opinion) adequate food options for vegetarians.

Rather, if you’re in Kimihurura and looking for a nice, tasty, quick, and convenient spot with good vegetarian options, I highly recommend Now Now Rolex. After drinks at Sundowner I walked next door to Now Now Rolex (it became my favorite vegetarian friendly spot) and had their spinach, tomato, and balsamic rolex (YUM). For those who aren’t familiar a Rolex is a popular Uganda dish made by combining an egg omelette and vegetables wrapped in a chapati.

Day 4: The Departure

Exploring the city by foot and off to the next destination.

My friends departed with an early morning flight, whereas mine was in the evening and leaving me with a whole day to adventure. Here’s what I did with my last day in Kigali.

Admire Handicrafts at Caplaki Craft Village

Nestled in between Kivoyu and Kimihura is Caplaki Craft Village, a community of artisans selling a variety of handicrafts. Housed in a collection of colorful wooden huts, the artisans showcase and sell artwork, bags, clothing, home decor, and much more. Stop by to admire the amazing crafts (..including the skills it takes to create them!) and to pick up gifts for yourself or loved ones.

Camp Kigali Belgian PeaceKeepers Memorial

Camp Kigali is a memorial for the 10 Belgian UN Peacekeepers, murdered on the first day of the 1994 genocide. Assigned to protect the then Prime Minister Agathe Uwilingiyimana, the soldiers were disarmed and brought to Camp Kigali where they were killed by Hutu Militias. The Camp Kigali memorial consists of the building where the soldiers were killed and an outdoor monument. The bullet sprayed building is home to a small genocide exhibition, while the outdoor monument consists of ten stone pillars. Each pillar represents a soldier and the horizontal cuts on each stone represents their age. If you’re in the area, I recommend checking it out.

Thoughts on Kigali:

How many days is enough? What made it special? How was my experience as a female traveler?

Four days in Kigali was nowhere near enough. There’s still so much to see within the city and the greater country. For me, visiting Rwanda was an unbelievable experience. I loved how clean, safe, and beautifully green Kigali, it’s surrounding areas, and Lake Kivu were. I loved learning and visiting historic sites. I enjoyed the thriving international scene, growing nightlife, and the food and variety of activities Kigali offers. Most of all, as a female traveler I felt safe. Interested in learning more? Check out these other reasons why Kigali, Rwanda should be on your travel list.